I know you've seen some Seoul Fashion Week coverage here on Elizabeth lives, but you can find my final recap and a handful of street style photos I took over on Mutzine, a new Korean Fashion webzine.
Moohong Kim’s AW15 collection was presented at Seoul Fashion Week with a sense of calmness, propriety, and form that removed the collection from simply being another part of the new monastic wave. Moohong’s collection, cut and draped to use space outside of the form of the body, created strong and unexpected silhouettes. The presentation of the collection was austere and quiet in a way that settled the collection.
The show opened with a softly discordant song, buzzing noise, and a model draped in layers of textured black wearing a jacket over it all that emphasize broad shoulders. After several minutes the noise dissolved into Anthony Hegarty’s piano/vocal cover of Returnal by Oneohtrix Point Never. This move away from the typical throbbing bass/electronic noise/moody repetition that is is so commonly chosen for shows seemed to settle the energy in the tent.
Moohong’s collection mixed fabric, sculpture, and human movement. The clothes hung in monochromatic columns off the austerely made up models who walked with almost bare faces and simply styled hair. He coupled architectural cantilevering with exceptional tailoring that hints at classic menswear ateliers draped and he did not forgo these details on the women’s wear included in his collection. Each of the outfits had a lot going on, and beyond the layers of black there were tiny details: frayed cuffs, silk twisted and tucked, zippers placed at angles, lapels on one outfit that briefly hinted at a tuxedo before melting back into the drape of the rest of the column. None of it seemed needlessly busy, though, or even fussy.
After Moohong Kim’s AW15 show ended people meandered through the tent, slowly leaving instead of chaotically dashing out. Moohong’s collection, and its entire presentation had created atmosphere and mood that caused people to take a deep breath and exhale slowly.
You can watch the whole show below:
You can listen to Anthony Hegarty’s version of Returnal by Oneohtrix Point Neve below:
Ranji Ye, The Centaur’s designer, was one of the Korean designers that I was aware of before I headed to Korea and I made sure to reach out to her brand's PR firm for tickets to her show. In 2009 she had been featured in Interview Magazine as a Generation Next Designer, Seoul Fashion Week’s category for up and coming Korean designers and I have followed her career as she rose through the ranks. By the time I was able to attend this show she had solidly moved to Seoul Collection, a spot she had decidedly earned over the last five years of confident collections.
The Centaur’s collection for A/W15 came with Ye’s signature attention to detail and pulled other unexpected influences together. Primarily, the clothes brought us back to an elaborate version of a silver screen era starlet that was offbeat but completely in control. Silks, satins, and gentle East Asian inspired patterns were worked into loose tailoring with clear hints towards glamorous pajamas of the 1930’s and 40’s. The clothes also featured wide legged trousers and long ribbed knit sweaters that gave credence to the 1970s, thin silver glasses chains and dark round sunglasses that reminded me of the 1960’s, and elaborate old-world coiffures and bold makeup that hearkened back to the starlets of early Asian cinema. Models came out wearing small silver hood ornament-like miniatures sitting delicately on the center parts of their hair.
The finale of the the collection came out to Dusty Springfield’s classic, You Don’t Have to Say You Love Mewhich lyrically and tonally was a perfect fit for a collection asking best features of bygone eras to come back. It articulated a certain sense of playful nostalgia. This feeling comes appropriately at this point in Ye’s career but the collection also made it completely clear that Ye hasn’t stopped exploring what it means to play with design and influence.