Moohong Kim’s AW15 collection was presented at Seoul Fashion Week with a sense of calmness, propriety, and form that removed the collection from simply being another part of the new monastic wave. Moohong’s collection, cut and draped to use space outside of the form of the body, created strong and unexpected silhouettes. The presentation of the collection was austere and quiet in a way that settled the collection.
The show opened with a softly discordant song, buzzing noise, and a model draped in layers of textured black wearing a jacket over it all that emphasize broad shoulders. After several minutes the noise dissolved into Anthony Hegarty’s piano/vocal cover of Returnal by Oneohtrix Point Never. This move away from the typical throbbing bass/electronic noise/moody repetition that is is so commonly chosen for shows seemed to settle the energy in the tent.
Moohong’s collection mixed fabric, sculpture, and human movement. The clothes hung in monochromatic columns off the austerely made up models who walked with almost bare faces and simply styled hair. He coupled architectural cantilevering with exceptional tailoring that hints at classic menswear ateliers draped and he did not forgo these details on the women’s wear included in his collection. Each of the outfits had a lot going on, and beyond the layers of black there were tiny details: frayed cuffs, silk twisted and tucked, zippers placed at angles, lapels on one outfit that briefly hinted at a tuxedo before melting back into the drape of the rest of the column. None of it seemed needlessly busy, though, or even fussy.
After Moohong Kim’s AW15 show ended people meandered through the tent, slowly leaving instead of chaotically dashing out. Moohong’s collection, and its entire presentation had created atmosphere and mood that caused people to take a deep breath and exhale slowly.
You can watch the whole show below:
You can listen to Anthony Hegarty’s version of Returnal by Oneohtrix Point Neve below: